When the saints come marching in

Ste Thérèse, Notre Dame de Paris

As I have written before, I am not a Catholic, nor do I attend church regularly.  I call myself a reformed Southern Baptist.  This makes some people laugh and offends others.  I've considered becoming Buddhist and I find the teachings of  Don Miguel Ruiz in The Four Agreements: A Toltec Wisdom Book fascinating.  I visit cathedrals and churches during my every visit to France because of their beauty and sheer abundance.  I am a candle-lighter, loving the ritual, the smell of wax and the heat from  the little flames.

I offer up little prayers of thanks and silent pleas to watch over my loved ones.

Strolling through a church, looking at the various altars to well or little known saints at once calms my soul and sets my pulse to racing.  Is that a bit of bone in that box?  Is that real gold?  Who carved that statue?  How many times has the Madonna and Child been painted and sculpted through the centuries?  Are the people waiting to confess going to shock the priest with their transgressions or make him suppress a little chuckle?  How many of these people are here for the very first time?  Are they Catholic or just curious?  Who else has walked on this same path of stone?  Napoléon?  Julius Caesar?  Victor Hugo?  Charles de Gaulle?  Louis IX?  Joan of Arc?
Back in March, I visited the Basilica of St. Denis for the first time.  The Best Guide in Paris and my Favorite Parisien took us there after discovering I had never been. (Here we are in Montmartre Cemetery in July.)

It is the burial place for kings and queens of France.  It is also where my friend Mme M's parents were married and she was baptized.  I found that out after my visit.
All these famous bones in one place.  And one heart...

Feet

In repose

Praying

Guarding their masters and mistresses

Legend has it that Saint Denis was murdered in pagan territory so he picked his head up and walked to Christian territory to die.
There is a statue in Montmartre--

And on the front of Notre Dame de Paris (left side door as you stand facing the cathedral)

You have to admit, it's a cool story.  That must have been one of his miracles.
The statues are beautiful.  Ste Joan of Arc pops up in a lot of churches and cathedrals.  Here she is in Notre Dame.

And also guarding the little chapel on Mont Saint Michel

Other religious statues I have found interesting lately-

Awe-inspiring, n'est-ce pas?

Bon appétit, saints and believers.

Ratatouille Vegetables and Pesto Chicken

It's obvious to anyone who reads this blog that I love to eat.  I have learned to love to cook over the past  few years, thanks to my time spent working in Arles, France with Chef Érick.  (The pupil went back to visit the master in July!)

And to check out "her" kitchen where are the magic took place in 2005, 2006, 2007, and 2008.

The B&B has been sold.  But not to me.  To a very nice Italian fellow.  I met him.  But the kitchen still looks and smells the same.  Chef Érick seems happy, less worried.  His children are living in the States now for the next 18 months while their mom takes on goat cheese-making in northern Michigan.  I know that will be difficult for him, but everyone will adjust.  (I ran into his ex at the Festival of Cheese last weekend.  She is American, but my only experience with her has been in France so it was kind of strange!)
Anyway, back to today's story.  I made up a recipe!  I have become quite adept at following others' recipes, but I am not well-known for improvisation.  However, I did it quite successfully this time.  I have discovered the delicious-ness of roasted summer vegetables and decided to throw in some chicken and some pesto that I brought back from the market in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue that I bought from a delightful merchant.
The BFF bought some, too, bien sûr!

I am still attempting to reign in my sweet tooth and eat other healthy things, including lots of fresh vegetables.  I'm still following The Skinny Rules by Bob Harper... (-4 lbs. almost 2 kg)  Bob is big on fresh fruit and vegetables.  I love him for this.
So, here's my recipe.  Not complicated and no real measurements needed!

Roasted Ratatouille Vegetables and Pesto Chicken

Choose quantities based on how many people you are feeding.  I didn't use tomatoes, but used a tomato sauce made to slather on bruschetta.  Harris Teeter sells a roasted vegetable tapenade that would be good, too.

Eggplant, sliced and cut into bite-sized pieces
Zucchini, sliced and cut into bite-sized pieces
Red bell pepper (same)
Green bell pepper (same)
Yellow squash would be good
Olive oil
Boneless chicken tenderloins or breasts
Pesto, homemade or from the store
Bruschetta sauce or roasted vegetable tapenade spread

Preheat oven to 425˚F.  Line a baking sheet with foil.  Spray with cooking spray, if you wish, to keep vegetables from sticking.
Chop vegetables and place in a ziploc bag with enough olive oil to thinly coat them.  Maybe 2 tablespoons, depending on how many vegetables you are using.  Sprinkle in a little coarse sea salt, if you wish, and herbes de Provence.  Make sure the bag is completely sealed and shake to mix it all up.
Arrange the vegetables in a single layer on the baking sheet.
Place in the oven and set the timer for about 15 minutes.
While the vegetables are roasting, prepare the chicken.  I used breast tenderloins (because that's what the Ex-Ex bought at the store and they worked well because they cooked quickly).  If using boneless, skinless breasts, pound them flat or perhaps cut them into smaller pieces so they will cook faster.
At the end of the 15 minutes, remove the pan from the oven.  Reduce oven temperature to 400˚F.
Add the bruschetta sauce or vegetable tapenade.  Place the chicken on top of the vegetables. Generously brush the chicken with pesto. (Pesto is one of my favorite things in the whole world, so I do not skimp on this!)
Return to oven and cook for 15-20 more minutes or until the chicken juices run clear when pierced with a fork.

Bon appétit to all lovers of summer vegetables!  Your mom was right-- eat your vegetables!

Festival of Cheese 2012

Grâce à, thanks (in a good way) to the generosity of the BFF's boss, Chef G, she and I have a big date tonight.  The American Cheese Society has been holding their annual conference and competition or Cheese Rally this week just down the road in Raleigh.  Bull City Burger and Brewery and Reliable Cheese held a beer and cheese pairing earlier in the week.  Tonight is the culminating event, the Festival of Cheese, where 1600+ cheesemakers will show their stuff.  There will also be crackers, charcuterie, honey, wine, and beer for consumption.  I am, as you can probably tell, quite excited.
In the summer edition of Culture magazine (which the BFF let me borrow for the day-- I didn't even know such a magazine existed), the Triangle (Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill) is prominently featured.
There are photos of Major, our Durham mascot,

Patrick of Reliable Cheese

and Wine Authorities

just to mention a few of the shout-outs for Durham.
There is also a guide, Game On, for novices such as myself on to how to navigate a Cheese Festival.

So, I am officially in training today.  Here are the do's and don'ts I will need to follow in order to be prepared.

Do Arrive Early
Personally, starting off the evening aggravated because I can't find a parking place or arriving late and wasting precious minutes when I could be sniffing (not to mention sampling) cheese would put me in an grumpy mood (see the last don't).

Do Plan To Stay Awhile
No leaving early tonight for us.  (Hear that, BFF?)

Don't Eat Too Much- Or Too Little Beforehand
Be hungry, not ravenous.

Do Take An Initial Lap To Orient Yourself
I imagine the Olympic athletes do this, too.  Right?

Do Be Mindful Of Progression
As with any tasting experience, start mild and work up to strong-- think fresh goat at the beginning and bleu at the end.

Don't Restrict Yourself
Try some new stuff, even things that you think you don't like (this would be bleu for moi...)

Do Seek Out Cheeses Not Readily Available In Your Region
Artisan cheesemakers tend to sell their stuff close to home.  Travel the country through cheese-tasting!

Do Take Notes
Advice from Ari Weinzweig, co-founder of Zingerman's Deli (the BFF heard him talk and has become a groupie)-- take notes, collect business cards, and take photos (I need to get some fresh batteries for the camera...)

Don't Escort The Gang
Just me and the BFF!

Do Bring Snacks
A few crackers or slices of baguette to cleanse the palate.  Okay, maybe I need the bigger purse tonight.

Don't Drink Too Much
Moderation in all things.  Generally keeps me from spilling stuff, too.  Embarrassing.

Don't Spit
Don't worry.  I think that's really disgusting, anyway, even when cute baseball players do it.

Do Be Considerate
Be polite.  Don't hurt the cheesemakers' feelings if you don't fall in love with their product.

Do Stay Comfortable
Practical shoes and clothes.  Maybe the white linen dress isn't a good idea?  Just in case of spills?

Don't Wear Perfumes Or Colognes
Check.  Good advice.  Don't want to mask all the yummy smells.

Do Carry Cash
Just like at an outdoor market.  Makes sense.

Do Flaunt Your Knowledge
Ask good, thoughtful questions.  (I have no medals or ribbons to display.  Just several visits to goat cheese makers in France and the US.)

Don't Rush
Savor, savor, savor.  The cheese and the experience.  Mais oui!  But of course!

Don't Be Grumpy
Know that it is going to be crowded and go with the flow.  I can do this! (See the first do)

This will be a great experience for une petite gourmande such as me.  I am up for the challenge.

I am ready to represent my fellow Triangle cheeselovers.

Bon appétit, fromage lovers of the Triangle!

Mont Saint Michel

On the last day of our 2012 BFF trip, JC and I decided to go to Mont St. Michel.  Once JC had committed to the trip, she told me that a visit to Mont St. Michel was on her bucket list.  I had only been there once before, during a student trip.  JC's son was with me on that trip.  And I was more than happy to return to this very special spot.
It's a tiny little speck on a map of France, in between Normandy and Brittany (Normandy claims it).

We booked seats on a bus tour from Paris with France Tourisme, knowing that it would be a long day but ready to leave the driving to someone else this time.  The weatherman was calling for rain.  JC kept telling me that it was not going to rain, to stop worrying.  (She was right.  I do not know why I worry about the weather anyway.  It's not as if I can control it.)
I could go on and on about the history of this pilgrimage spot, but if you are interested click here and Wikipedia will tell you all you want to know.  Saying that a visit here is a religious experience sounds a bit silly in view of the story that surrounds its beginnings.  According to legend, the Archangel Michael repeatedly ordered the bishop of Avranches to build a church there in 708.  The good bishop repeatedly ignored him until Michael burned a hole in his skull to get his point across.  A golden statue of Michael graces the top of the church.  (He is the patron saint of grocers, mariners, paratroopers, police, and sickness, by the way.)

It is a religious experience, though, even for a non-Catholic and someone who doesn't attend church on a regular basis.
Only about 40 people live on the island.  There are lots and lots of tourist shops, selling all kinds of souvenirs, including the lovely butter cookies the area is known for.  (I brought back two small tins of them. Photo courtesy of amazon.com)

JC and I climbed to the top, to visit the church where I sent up a prayer for my very ill brother and Mama Mildred

and to look at the people making their way across the sand to the other small island.

We wandered around in the cemetery

and discovered Sainte Jeanne d'Arc guarding a lovely little chapel.

I don't remember this spot from my first visit.  It is a jewel.

We lit candles.

We did not wash our feet in the fountain.

We did decide to have omelets for lunch after watching them cook when we first arrived on the island.

We were short on time, but found a seat at Terrasses Poulard.

Wonderful cider made from all of those Normandy apples, our fluffy omelets,  frites, and the ever-present salade.  We are so glad that we made time for this.  Délicieux!

I found a recipe at Armchair Uzès, but I haven't tried it yet.  The real recipe is a closely guarded secret, as is the recipe for the butter cookies.
Some folks make the trek this way... interesting.

Other random photos-

It was one of the best days I've ever spent.  I know that JC would say the same.

Bon appétit, Archangel Michel, JC, and pilgrims everywhere!

3Bisous

I am very, very fond of the French custom of kisses on the cheek when greeting friends and family members.  At the beginning of the school year, I call in my Italian colleague from next door to help me demonstrate this custom with my 6th grade class.  (Mme P has no idea her image would be used for this one!  Maybe Betty Boop suspected?  I am still longingly looking at my photos from the July trip-- heavy sigh)  I am sure they think I am weird.  Oh well.  C'est la vie.
I have started a new blog and named it 3Bisous.  These kisses are called bises or bisous and in the south of France. 3 is the magic number.  The name of the blog has nothing to do with the content, however, at this time.  Unfortunately, I do not get to kiss enough Frenchies to have much to write about in that realm.  This one is devoted to my quest for self-improvement, namely losing weight.  The number on the scale has been slowly creeping up for the past year.  I've blamed it on middle-age, menopause, and thyroid issues.  I don't talk about it much, certainly not at school.  We all come in various shapes and sizes and that's a good thing.  But getting up every morning and not being able to fit into my clothes is a big bummer.  Wanting to erase most of the photos taken of me in France is bad for morale, too.  Mindlessly putting stuff into my mouth is not good for me.  I love to eat and I love good food.  Since my sabbatical and eight months total spent in France working for Chef Érick, good food has taken on a new meaning for me.  Fresh ingredients reign supreme.  It's when I slip into old habits and eat for no good reason or am too tired or lazy to prepare something good for myself that the weight goes up.
Enter the most sensible book I have found to date:  The Skinny Rules by Bob Harper.  His name meant nothing to me when the BFF told me about the book.  I don't watch a lot of TV and haven't ever followed The Biggest Loser.  Bob is a 46 year old personal trainer who appears on TBL.  So, the new blog has become my journal.  I am not ready to share it -- not yet.  But I am on Day 4 and feeling pretty proud.

Bob's Signature No-Oil Hummus

2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 tsp. salt
1 15.5 oz. can low sodium garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 garlic clove, cut into smaller pieces
1/4 c. low sodium vegetable broth (or water) to thin

Place all in food processor; process until smooth.
Refrigerate in airtight container up to 5 days.

I scooped some up on an Arnold Whole Wheat Sandwich Thin cut into wedges.  Really, really good.

Bon appétit et bon courage to all trying to self-improve!