Tuesday, February 5, 2013

My Men and Me

Okay, so technically I traveled to Paris a couple of weeks ago completely alone.  But that doesn't mean I didn't meet up with some men along the way.


Hem was my dinner companion at the Café du Commerce where we enjoyed an excellent steak-frites and a Côtes du Rhône rouge.


Okay, sure, he was in the book I was reading, but he was still with me, you know.

Depardieu was my traveling companion on the TGV.


I've admired his movies for years.  But I just cannot talk any sense into him.  Revoke his French card?  Become a Russian citizen?  Seriously, Gerard, think this through.

"Jean-Pierre" was at my table for dinner on the Seine River cruise.  (He is real, BTW, and a great sport.)


He was traveling with his girlfriend and ate at a table with all women and kept us laughing.  He could be on a magazine cover, though.  This is his GQ pose.  Pas mal du tout.  I will think of him each time I buy magazines at snacks at a Hudson News airport shop.



I had apéritifs with my favorite Parisian!  The one and only best guide in the world.  Here he is talking to my new French teacher friends from Georgia.


He also treated me to lunch.  OMG.  What a meal.
Foie gras


Duck with risotto


And his finger in the dessert crumble we shared.


We did work during lunch.  Really, we did.  We went over my itinerary for the Kiddie Trip next month.  He let me in on a few secrets that I am keeping to myself.  And then the next day he took off for Singapore.

I  met up with my darling Vincent in Arles.


He is a little camera shy, non?  It was a chilly day so I don't blame him for hiding behind the glass of a shop window.

I also had a chance to catch up with my friend, Fred.


M. Mistral to you since you haven't been properly introduced.  Or maybe you have been to Place du Forum in Arles and made his acquaintance.  Je ne sais pas.  He's been standing there patiently waiting for me since I saw him in July.  I whispered to him that I would return as soon as possible.

Brad was waiting for me in the airport.

See him gazing my way?  We sampled a few perfumes, ate a couple of Ladurée macarons, and then parted ways when my flight was called.  Au revoir, mon bel ami!

And to think that the Ex-Ex was worried about me traveling alone.  But I must say, none of them were an ounce of help as I was dragging those suitcases through the snow...

C'est la vie.

Bon appétit, les mecs.  Thanks for a great trip!

Sunday, February 3, 2013

The Very Hungry Sabbatical Chef

With apologies (maybe?) to Eric Carle...


During my recent visit to Mme P's house in Pujaut, her son Harry was busy memorizing The Very Hungry Caterpillar for his English class.  The whole family got involved, of course, as families will do.  Especially families with an English-teaching mom and two older sisters who also study English.  Mme P drew inspiration from this children's book on my last night at her house and wrote the following story...  an ode to me, I suppose, and my meals while in the south of France.  She also supplied the two drawings, Skitching on my iPad.

The Very Hungry Sabbatical Chef

She started to look for food.  On Monday, she ate through moules-frites, but she was still hungry.



On Tuesday, she ate through cassoulet, but she was still hungry.


On Wednesday, she ate through choucroute, but she was still hungry.


On Thursday, she ate through tomates-mozzarelle, but she was still hungry.


On Friday, she ate through brandade, but she was still hungry.


On Saturday, she ate through the leftovers of moules-frites, gâteau des Rois,



cassoulet, galette,


choucroute, foie gras,


cèpes,


fondant du chocolat,


tomates-mozzarelle, rôti de veau,


fromage,


brandade, scones,


and on Sunday, she was GOOD!

Oui, I did indeed eat all of these things from Monday to Saturday.  I confess.  I just happen to have friends who are excellent cooks and love to share their food with me.   Moules-frites, cassoulet, brandade, galette, and scones were at Mme P's house.  Foie gras, cèpes, and fondant au chocolat were at Betty Boop's (along with champagne and Tavel rosé), the tomates-mozzarelle, rôti de veau, fromage, and first galette were at the Frenchie's house.  We spent a day in Arles and had choucroute at La Mule Blanche, one of my favorite places to eat in my adopted town.  Winter fare in France is amazing, but seriously, is there a bad season for food there?  Je pense que non.

Merci, mes amis--

The cast of characters...

Mme P's husband, dishwasher par excellence!


Mme P's daughter who generously gives up her room each time I visit--


Bigoudi, the new bébé who kept me company in the mornings--



Betty Boop, excellent hostess and cook who always makes me laugh--


And, last but not least, Mme P and the Frenchie, my French BFFs.


I will be back in just 5 weeks, you know...

Bon appétit et merci à tous mes amis!

Friday, February 1, 2013

La Tour Eiffel sous la neige


I arrived on Friday morning, the snow started Friday evening.  Innocent, beautiful white flakes.  Aren't they pretty?  we all said on our way to an apéritif dînatoire.  By the time we came out, we were slipping and sliding on the sidewalks, not in snow boots, but flats, cute boots, clogs, etc.  And it just kept coming down.

My hotel was a 10-15 walk down the Quai de Grenelle from La Grande Dame, so I put on as many layers as I could (luckily, at the very last minute I bought a pair of long underwear at Wal-Mart and threw the pants and long-sleeved shirt in my suitcase) and my Dansko black suede clogs and headed out to see her in the snow.  Lots of Frenchie families were out throwing snowballs and slipping and sliding around.  She was closed due to the weather, but no one seemed to care.  Everyone was snapping photos and laughing.

I had never seen more than just a flake or two of snow in Paris before, so I was happy, but as cold as I ever remember being during my college years in Boone, NC (I am sure it wasn't really that cold, but the wind was blowing and it sure felt pretty darned chilly).


Proof that I was there!  I never travel in the winter without my ear band because cold ears are no fun at all.  I made it back to the hotel, none the worse for the wear, to warm up before our dinner cruise down the Seine in a heated, covered Bateau Parisien.  Managed not to slip and fall, but did get bombarded by snowballs from a balcony and three teen-age boys.  The snowballs I saw coming and knew I couldn't do a thing about them, just wave and keep going.  But to be called a salope?  Really, boys?  However, that didn't bother me.  How could anything save a broken bone ruin a beautiful Paris snowfall in January?

À plus... more to come!  Ah oui... the food was excellent.  I was fed foie gras not one, not twice but three delicious times.  And champagne, too.

Bon appétit, Mme Eiffel and my new friends from ACIS!

Thursday, January 31, 2013

Not dead, just...

Overwhelmed?
Oui.
I feel kind of like this.


I took this last week in Arles at the Hôtel de Ville.  Mme P and I went there for the morning and roamed around.  It was lovely to be back.
I will find some time to blog soon.  C'est promis.

Bon appétit to all lions out there!

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Back in Provence!

Paris was lovely in the snow.  I braved the cold to trek down to see her up close on Sunday.  I am very happy to report that I did not slip and fall at all-- not while roaming around nor while dragging (literally) my two way too heavy suitcases through the snow and slush from the Novotel on Quai de Grenelle to Bir Hakeim metro stop to the Gare de Lyon train station. (I think that is why I have a backache today...) There ended up being about 4 inches of snow (pictures when I get home and have my own computer again). ACIS had planned a trip to the chateau of Chantilly on Sunday but that didn't happen due to the snow.  We were treated to a dinner cruise of the Seine instead.  Tragic, n'est-ce pas?  Foie gras and kir royale and dessert from Le Notre.
Now I am back in Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, pecking away at this French keyboard while Mme P is at a staff meeting.  Last night we had moules-frites for dinner, at the suggestion of one of her daughters.  Today I am at school, yes, actually working, and tonight we are hosting M et Mme A for dinner (cassoulet is on the menu).  It is so wonderful to be back here.  The Provence sun is shining, the skies are blue, and Mme P has a surprise planned for me for tomorrow.  She hinted that is a place that I know well, where there is a Wednesday market.  And a girls' night at Mme Boop's house in Tavel.  I have heard champagne and foie gras mentioned... oh, and fondant du chocolat. 
More updates from the road as I have internet or time.  I am most definitely collecting material for future blogs!  I met some wonderful people in Paris and look forward to keeping in touch with them-- even if they are Georgia Bulldogs.  Go Vols!

The Ex-Ex cuts the ribbon for our new gym at school today.  Congratulations from afar.  I know that it is fabulous!

A plus, mes amis!

Bon appetit!
( I have no idea how to find accents of this keyboard...)

Thursday, January 17, 2013

Packed and ready to go


Like good little soldiers, they are standing at attention and awaiting my command.  The Ex-Ex should be here in just a few minutes to whisk me away to the airport.  Yes, I am taking two suitcases for a nine day stay.  I have a very good reason, too.  In addition to three glorious (but cold) days in Paris, I am heading down south to visit Mme P, her family, and her classes.  I will, I hope, see other Frenchie friends while I am there.  Mme P and I have twinned our classes (her 8th and my 7th) and they are pen pals.  The larger suitcase is packed full of letters and little gifts from my students to hers, as well as things from the students who are traveling with me in March for their hosts.  I feel like Mme Claus with her bag full of goodies on Christmas Eve.   I will drag these suitcases to the Gare de Lyon on Monday to catch the TGV for Nîmes and then head over to Villeneuve-lez-Avignon to meet up with Mme P when she gets out of class for the day.  I will be there until early Saturday morning when I will haul the suitcases to the Avignon TGV station for the train ride to Roissy-Charles de Gaulle airport for my return flight.  I hope those Samsonite suitcases are well-rested and ready for what's ahead.  I am!!
I have the iPad tucked away in my purse and hope to blog from the road.  On verra.

Bon appétit et bon voyage, Sabbatical Chef!

Monday, January 14, 2013

Lists


Are you a list maker?  I currently have three going for my upcoming trip... personal stuff to take, gifts and school stuff to take, and things I am supposed to bring back.  Wouldn't it be great if I could actually find the lists?  Or if they were in the same notebook, whether in the little notebook I carry around in my purse or on my iPad?  Oh non, that would be way too easy and organized for moi.
Before you go somewhere, do you read up?  Google museums?  Read guidebooks?  These are my three current bedtime reading books.  Clothilde's book was a Christmas gift from the BFF.  And she didn't even know that I follow Clothilde on Chocolate & Zucchini.  Clothilde recommends restaurants in every arrondissement of Paris, as well as markets and food shops.  She says that Pierre Hermé's macarons are her favorite.  That is definitely on my Paris to-do list.  Oh, that brings the lists up to four.  I've actually eaten at four of the restaurants in her book, too.  Maybe I can add another this go-around.
Forever Paris was also a BFF gift. It is filled with 25 walks in the footsteps of the likes of Chanel, Hemingway, and Picasso.  It seems that Julia Child haunted some of my favorite spots--in particular Rue Cler, with a lunch stop at Café du Marché.  I am going to follow this one and see where she and Paul lived.  She loved Au Pied de Cochon.  I've seen it but have never eaten there.  Their soupe à l'oignon is supposed to be délicieuse and that will be just what is in order because it is going to be a cold weekend in Paris (as opposed to 70˚F here in Durham, NC-- icky weather for January, in my humble opinion...)  Julia is quoted as saying "I am half-French and that's all there is to it."  I am adopting that one.  There is also a Hemingway walk that includes the Luxembourg Gardens , Shakespeare & Company, Brasserie Lipp and Deux Magots.  A chocolat chaud or un verre de rouge, perhaps?  Hemingway's quote-- "If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast."
Wandering Paris was a gift from Arles Lucy last year.  Its author, Jill Butler, is an artist, as is Arles Lucy.  I used it last year to find the Marché d'Aligre, a wonderful open air market in the 12th arrondissement.  She also recommended the Monoprix on Rue de Rennes, but I wasn't very taken with it.  I have plans to visit the one on Avenue des Ternes.  I was in there very briefly last March with the students.  It needs to be explored further.  I love Monoprix.  The French equivalent of Target only French!
So, I'd best see if I can find the lists and get to packing.
I leave you with my favorite Looney Tunes character, that lovable French-speaking skunk, Pepé le Pew.

One of my work buddies, GB, came in my room this morning to tell me that he saw a building on his way to work, engulfed in fog with a blinking light on top that made him think of the blinking Eiffel Tower in my classroom which made him think of this cartoon character.  He wanted to know if Pepé had anything to do with my passion for French.  And, as a matter of fact, the answer is Oui, mon chéri. His French was certainly the only French I heard spoken until I signed up for Mme Buchanan's class my sophomore year.  And to be initiated into the Cercle Français, we had to dress up like Pepé.  Ah, high school memories.  Pepé was first introduced in 1945.  He thinks that he is irresistible but actually smells bad and never takes no for an answer.  He was created by Chuck Jones and Michael Maltese and voiced by Mel Blanc from 1945-1988.

I made this soup last week when it was actually chilly outside.  A big thumbs up from the Ex-Ex.  Would Pepé like it?  Mais oui, mon amour!
 I started with a recipe from Taste of Home as my guide and improvised a bit.

Potato Cheese Soup
6 servings

4 russet baking potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-sized cubes
1 small onion, chopped
3 stalks of celery, chopped
2 cloves of garlic, minced
2 tablespoons butter (or olive oil or a mixture of both)
1 1/2 cups water
1 tsp. salt
3 cups milk
3 tablespoons butter, melted
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1/8 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
Bacon, fried crisp and crumbled  (if desired)

In a large pot, melt 2 tablespoons of butter on medium heat.  Sauté the onion and celery until soft.  Add the garlic for the last minute.  Add the potatoes, cover with water, cover the pot and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes.  Do not drain.  Add milk.  Stir.  Keep on low heat.
In a small bowl, blend the melted butter, flour, parsley, and pepper.  Stir into potato mixture.  Cook and stir over medium heat until thickened and bubbly.  Remove from heat; adjust seasonings; add cheese and gently stir until almost melted.
Ladle into bowls, top with bacon and a bit more cheese, if desired.

Bon appétit, Pepé!  Paris, here I come!
Next installment-- le Provence list...