Sunday, May 16, 2010

Vincent

Vincent is part of the reason I returned to Arles.  I first visited Arles in 1987, with a group of students.  It was a very brief visit.  In 2005, I had the opportunity to return, thanks to, grâce à, a summer grant from my school.  I chose Arles for two three reasons-- Van Gogh painted there, I wanted to take a cooking course and I wanted to go back to Provence.  I decided to spend all of my time in Arles so that I could feel at home in one place.  I spent a week at the Hôtel du Cloître, now closed, right next to the antique amphitheatre.
The painting above, La Nuit étoilée, sometimes called Starry Night Over the Rhône, is my favorite painting.  I pay homage to it every time I go to the Musée d'Orsay, its home.
One of my students got this photo of the back of my head, proving that I really was there.  It's (Note:  Okay, the it here refers to the painting, not my head!  Signora read this and substituted my head for it, instead of the painting in the next few sentences and she has been laughing ever since!) been on loan the last two times I was in Paris.  I hope it is back where it belongs when I return to Paris the next time.  I miss it.  I have a copy of it in my classroom, one at home and one in Arles at Chef Érick's house.  That one was framed for me by my dear friend GBear.  I just haven't figured out how to get it back here without breaking the glass.  The frame is perfect.  The spot where Vincent painted it was just a two minute walk from where I lived, at Chef Érick's on Rue Pierre Euzeby.  I walked down there many, many times at night during the months I lived there.  Arles does not own any of his paintings unfortunately.  But they have a walking tour of all the spots where he painted his most famous works.  During the summer, there is also a guided walk offered through the tourist office.  These are the sidewalk markers that direct you on your walk-
I spent quite a bit of time during the summer of 2005 in a park in Arles, les Jardins d'Été, where he painted and where this memorial is found.
There is also the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh, with works by other artists.
About 20 years ago, I was given a copy of Irving Stone's Lust for Life.  That is when my love affair with Vincent began, to tell the truth.  I had seen paintings and heard about the crazy painter who cut off his ear, but I didn't know much more than that.  After reading that book, which is based on letters he wrote to his brother, Théo, I felt as if I truly knew Vincent.  I tried to watch the film by the same name, but I just didn't want to see Kirk Douglas' face instead of Vincent's.

Here I am posing with Vincent outside the Musée d'Orsay--
I look confused, as usual, but Vincent's blue eyes are so beautiful.  I love the blue swirls.  What was Vincent thinking as he painted himself?
The flowers have been replanted, based on his painting, at what was once a hospital in Arles--

I just finished reading The Yellow House- Van Gogh, Gauguin and Nine Turbulent Weeks in Provence by Martin Gaylord.  It explains their relationship and Vincent's hope to build a colony for artists in Provence.  There is quite a bit of detail about some of the paintings he did there.  Arles is where he cut off his ear and the author offers more speculation about his mental anguish, offering bi-polar disorder as a possibility.   Arles is also where he found his own style and produced his most beautiful paintings.  On June 25, 1944, the building where the yellow house stood was hit in by a bomb.  Vincent's bedroom was destroyed, but part of their studio and Gauguin's bedroom survived a little bit longer.

Now, at Place Lamartine, there are a few shops and cafés, a Monoprix, a roundabout and a middle school is being built nearby.
Vincent was influenced by Monticelli, a French painter born in Marseille.  Chef Érick and I went to an exhibit there during my stay in 2008.
If you visit Provence in the summer, you can see why he was so taken by the light and the colors.


After leaving Provence, Vincent lived the last months of his life in Auvers-sur-Oise, in northern France. My friend Ghislaine knows how I love Vincent and she took me there one day.  We visited the house he lived in, we walked through the wheat fields and we visited his and Théo's graves. Vincent shot himself on July 27, my birthday, but in 1890, 68 years before my birth.  He died two days later at the age of 37.
I have another Vincent book on my bedside table, waiting for summer vacation, Van Gogh's Women His Love Affairs and Journey Into Madness by Derek Fell.  Vincent is quoted as saying "I cannot live without love, without a woman."  Another quote at the beginning of this book is "A woman is not old as long as she loves and is loved."  Thank goodness he wrote all those letters to Théo so we can know what he was feeling.
The song Vincent (also known as Starry, Starry Night) was recorded by Don McLean in 1971.  I've listened to it quite a few times lately, since finishing The Yellow House.

Starry, starry night.
Paint your palette blue and gray,
Look out on a summer's day,
With eyes that know the darkness of my soul.
Shadows on the hills,
Sketch the trees and the daffodils,
Catch the breeze and the winter chills,
In colors on the snowy linen land.

Now I understand what you tried to say to me,
How you suffered for your sanity,
How you tried to set them free.
They would not listen, they did not know how.
Perhaps they'll listen now.

Starry, starry night.
Flaming flowers that brightly blaze,
Swirling clouds in violet haze,
Reflect in Vincent's eyes of china blue.
Colors changing hue, morning field of amber grain,
Weathered faces lined in pain,
Are soothed beneath the artist's loving hand.

Now I understand what you tried to say to me,
How you suffered for your sanity,
How you tried to set them free.
They would not listen, they did not know how.
Perhaps they'll listen now.

For they could not love you,
But still your love was true.
And when no hope was left in sight
On that starry, starry night,
You took your life, as lovers often do.
But I could have told you, Vincent,
This world was never meant for one
As beautiful as you.

Starry, starry night.
Portraits hung in empty halls,
Frameless head on nameless walls,
With eyes that watch the world and can't forget.
The ragged men in the ragged clothes,
The silver thorn of bloody rose,
Lie crushed and broken on the virgin snow.

Now I think I know what you tried to say to me,
How you suffered for your sanity,
How you tried to set them free.
They would not listen, they're not listening still.
Perhaps they never will...

Bon appétit, Vincent!

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

A poem for today

 


where we are


by Gerald Locklin

(for edward field)

i envy those
who live in two places:
new york, say, and london;
wales and spain;
l.a. and paris;
hawaii and switzerland.

there is always the anticipation
of the change, the chance that what is wrong
is the result of where you are.  i have
always loved both the freshness of
arriving and the relief of leaving. with
two homes every move would be a homecoming.
i am not even considering the weather, hot
or cold, dry or wet:  i am talking about hope.

Bon appétit, la Provence and North Carolina, my two places.

Monday, May 10, 2010

Happy Mother's Day!

Mother's Day started a day early at Wine Authorities with a wine and chocolate tasting/pairing.  Michel Cluizel chocolate paired with Pellegrini 8 Cousins Zinfandel 2007, Thorn Clarke Terra Barossa Shiraz 2008, Sant'Evasio Brachetto d'Acqui 2009 and Mas de l'Avail Expression 2007 Maury Rouge.
My Mother's Day was wonderful.  We had perfect weather, blue skies, temperatures hovering around 70, a little breeze blowing.  (Where can I find weather like that year round?)
High school-age son actually got out of bed at 8:00 am to have breakfast with us at Elmo's.  (College-age son didn't arrive home until later in the day.)
I talked to my mom.  I caught her in between church and work (yes, she had to work on Mother's Day...).  The Un-Ex talked to his mom.  They are both doing well.
For the first time in a while, both boys were home for dinner.  Nothing special, but I did make a strawberry tart with berries from the farmers' market.
The boys gave me dark chocolate.  Oui, they know my weakness.  I just let it melt in my mouth.
And the father of my children, the man who made me a mother, gave me a new camera so that I can take even more photos for this blog.  I hope he never gets tired of my obsession with this writing.
One of my 6th grade students brought in a bowl of strawberries she picked herself this weekend.  I photographed them, of course!  Aren't they beautiful?

I really should make something for her class... maybe there is some tart left over?  These may not make it home.  Or maybe they should be dipped in dark chocolate.  Hmmmm... decisions, decisions.

Bon appétit, to moms everywhere!

Un jardin potager in Durham


The BFF and I are now officially gardeners.  We have our very own vegetable garden or jardin potager, as the French say.  We were roaming around the Saturday morning farmers' market in Durham when her husband sent a text to ask us if we would like to plant a garden.  We suppressed a scream (I think...) and immediately said (or texted, rather) yes.  Why hadn't we thought of that?  They have a perfect backyard for it.  No little boys running around back there any more to step on the plants (don't cry, BFF).  Only Radar, the dog.
By the time we got home from the market, the ground was all tilled and ready for us to plant.  (Go Daddy-O!)


We bought zucchini, cantaloupe, green and banana peppers, tomatoes, lavender, rosemary and French (of course) tarragon.  We very lovingly placed them in the ground and watered them.  Daddy-O has requested okra and the Un-Ex wants watermelon.  I think we need eggplant (to go with the zucchini and tomatoes to make ratatouille!!).
I already have a very nice herb garden, lettuces and tomatoes on my deck at home.  My deck is perfect-- morning sun only.  It is very pleasant back there in the evenings.  This is my second year of herb-tending.   The satisfaction I derive from them is indescribable.

Today, for instance, my lunch was a salad of greens from my deck with tilapia that I grilled last night.

I helped make dinner last night for a friend whose wife is recovering from surgery.  It gave me great pleasure to chop up my fresh basil to add to the parmesan cheese coating.
I've bought all of my plants at the Durham Farmers' Market.  I wonder if the fact that I sit out there in the evening and talk to them makes them happy?  I hope the neighbors don't think I am nuts...  Oh, who cares?

Parmesan Chicken
(serves 4)

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, sliced in half horizontally
1/4 c. flour
5 oz. shredded parmesan cheese
1-2 Tbsp. chopped fresh basil
2 egg whites
2/3 c. water
2-4 Tbsp. olive oil

Mix the flour, cheese and basil in a shallow bowl.
In another shallow bowl, mix the egg whites and water until slightly frothy.
Heat the oil in a non-stick skillet.  Working quickly, place half the chicken breasts in the water-egg white mixture, then in the flour-cheese mixture and coat.  Cook about 3 minutes per side and remove to a plate to keep warm.  Repeat the process with the remaining breasts.  Serve immediately.

Bon appétit, mon jardin potager!

Sunday, May 9, 2010

CSB: Day 2

 

Dorette has an outdoor wood oven and we put it to good use.  We cooked everything in it on the second day of our cooking seminar.  She started the fire around 6:00 am and we kept it going by adding wood every 20 minutes.  The temperature gets to around 750F.
We started by roasting eggplant or aubergine for the papeton.
In France, Chef Érick loves to cook with eggplant.  He has found that quite a few Americans have no idea how to prepare it and therefore think that they don't really like it.  He always takes that as a challenge.  Our papeton d'aubergine turned out quite delicious.
Our chefs roasted tomatoes and herbs in the oven to make a couple of different tomato sauces to serve for lunch.
I could've eaten them just like that.  I love roasted tomatoes.  These grape ones are so sweet.  The sauces were perfect, however.
Dough was made for pizzas and for fougasse, a Provençal pastry.  Dorette and I remembered our early morning outings to visit the Fassy family bakery in Maillane during the teen chefs week in Provence.

Warm fougasse, pain au chocolat, croissant, pissaladière and baguettes... washed down with hot chocolate made by melting Belgian chocolate into hot milk.   Jean-Marie and his apprentices are amazing.
Back to North Carolina and my chefs making dough!
Pizza roulades were made with swiss chard and goat cheese, ready for the oven...
Herbs from the garden were added as a finishing touch before serving.
And it was accompanied by the tomato sauces.
I cleaned my plate...
My mom would be proud.
We also ate our baked fougasse, using the tomato sauces for dipping.  This was very popular with the young chefs, especially the one with rosemary goat cheese added in.
It is difficult to get it baked just right in the wood oven, without burning it or totally covering it with ashes from the fire.  Our chefs were up for the job.
Dessert was a strawberry tart.  The strawberries from the farmers' markets and local farms are incredible right now.  So juicy and sweet.  My challenge is to actually keep them around long enough to make something out of them.  I ate all of the ones I bought last week...  no tart or muffins at my house.

We washed and cut these up and added a few grains of lavender, along with a bit of orange juice (lemon or lime juice would work well, too) before arranging them in the pan and topping them with pastry.  Sort of a strawberry tarte tatin.
We drank tall glasses of water with cucumber slices.  I had never tried this before.  One of the girlie chefs gave us the idea.  Very refreshing.
It was another very successful cooking seminar, both for the kids and for me.
Merci, mes chefs!
Fougasse

Fougasse is the classic flat bread of Provence, related to the focaccia of Italy.  It is known by its cut ladder shape and can be found plain or filled with olives, cheese, anchovy paste, pork cracklings... When made with olive oil (the pompe à l'huile), it is part of the Christmas meal, one of the 13 desserts of Provence.  Every baker has his variation of this regional classic.


Mix the following together, knead for 15 minutes and let sit overnight in the refrigerator wrapped in plastic to prevent a crust from forming and the dough from drying out.

500 grams (2 1/4 cups) bread flour
10 grams (1/2 tsp) salt
20-30 grams bakers' yeast in cakes (more in winter, less in summer)
200-500 grams (1 cup or a bit more) water

The next day, take out the dough, cut into sections, roll it out and make the cuts.  You can add pork or duck cracklings which you fold into the dough, then roll the dough, then fold again, then roll again.  Or you can sprinkle some cheese and sun dried tomatoes on the top, or some chopped olives, olive oil and herbs, or honey... The possibilities are endless.  You can also flavor the dough with orange essence.

Let rise 15-30 minutes in a warm place.  Place in a hot oven (200C/420F) and bake for 10 minutes or until just golden on top.


Bon appétit, Provence, Fassy et fougasse!

Thursday, May 6, 2010

A dream job

When I returned to school this afternoon after spending the day cooking with Chef Dorette Snover and six students, one of my advisees asked me how it went and what we made.  This young man loves to cook, too.  After I told him a bit about the day, he looked at me and said "Just think, you get paid to do this."  He is so right.  Do I have the dream job or what? 
For the fourth year, my school has supported a two-day cooking seminar at C'est si Bon! cooking school.  I offered it to eighth graders only this year.  They had to get their teachers' approval and apply for one of the spots.  Today was day one.
We arrived at C'est si Bon! around 9:00 am.
Spring in North Carolina is incredibly beautiful.  Rhododendrons, the purple flowers, are one of my favorites.  The county where I was born and raised, Mitchell, is famous for its June Rhododendron Festival.  They even used to crown a queen.  Maybe they still do.  The bushes bloom here in early May. 
Dorette's husband, Rich, gave the kids a tour of the garden in back of the cooking school.  We returned to it later to pick salad greens and herbs.
After getting acquainted, Dorette gave a lesson on chopping onions.  Seems like a simple enough task, but I always hated chopping onions until Dorette gave me my first lesson.  Slice off the non-root end, slice the onion in half, slicing through the root end.  Take off the outer, brown skin.  Lay the half down flat.  With a sharp knife, make vertical cuts toward the root end, but not all the way to the root.  Then make horizontal cuts, maybe two or three.  Then slice.  Make extra cuts as you get to the root end so that your pieces are relatively uniform.  This is obviously easier to demonstrate than to describe.  And maybe everyone except me is in on the secret!  The students were impressed.
The girls divided themselves into two "teams" and set about their work.  We explained the importance of cleaning up after themselves, keeping their work stations neat, composting every possible scrap, and we set a goal-- seated with the first course at noon.   I am always quick to point out that Dorette is the chef, I am the assistant.  Today's great revelation-- my confidence level has tremendously improved.  I do not feel quite so awkward in the kitchen or in Dorette's presence.  Go me!
Here is what was in store for today--

The cauliflower soup was our first course.  The cauliflower and potatoes were cooked just right-- a bit of a crunch left, not mushy at all.  From this...
to this...
Chives were added, as well as a slice of garlic and olive oil topped toast.  And a dollop of crème fraîche.  This would make a wonderful dinner soup all by itself.
The second course was ham and cheese crêpes made from buckwheat flour.  Most people are familiar with dessert crêpes.  Main dish crêpes are so good and there are so many ways to fill them.  There is a little crêperie in Chantilly, France with the most wonderful spinach crêpes...  I digress.
Once again, herbs from Dorette's garden are visible in the filling.  She emphasizes the importance of fresh ingredients and what a difference they make in the taste of dishes.  I have become such a believer.  It is how I grew up... we always had a garden and both sets of my grandparents had gardens.  We ate what came from the garden and canned what was left over for the winter months.
Our next course was a beet root salad.  I'd never seen orange beets.  They are so colorful.
They were boiled, peeled and sliced for the salads.  Salad greens were picked, washed and arranged on plates.  The beets, now yellow, were added.  Goat cheese was placed on top of the beets and then vinaigrette was drizzled over it all.  (This was my favorite dish!)
Adding arugula gave it an interesting taste.
By this time, the girls were getting full.  We are used to eating in about 20 minutes in our classrooms.  Taking 1 1/2 - 2 hours for lunch is an unheard of luxury in American schools.
But, wonder of wonders, they bounced right back and made an amazing recovery just in time for dessert!  A Far Breton had been mixed up and baked in the oven.  We used blackberries, cooking them down a bit.
We had some left over after adding it to the cake batter and used it to top our cake, along with a bit of crème fraîche.
I really love blackberries and perhaps was a bit greedy...  Moi?  Une petite gourmande?  Guilty as charged.
We drank several pitchers of water flavored with lemon balm picked from the garden.  The temperature hit 90 today and the water was perfect.
It was a delicious day.  And I get to do it again tomorrow...  and yes, I do get paid to do this.
Stay tuned for day two.

Far Breton
(from the C'est si Bon! kitchen)

A far is a custardy pudding cake, similar to a clafouti but with a dense, smooth, flan-like texture.  This is the signature pastry of Brittany, served for breakfast as well as dessert.

8 servings

2 cups whole milk
3 large eggs
1/2 c. sugar
5 Tbsp unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/4 tsp vanilla extract
1/8 tsp salt
3/4 c. all-purpose flour

1 c. fruit-- prunes, blackberries, cherries, for example
1/2 c. water
1/4 c. armagnac or other brandy

powdered sugar
crème fraîche, optional

Combine milk, eggs, 1/2 cup sugar, butter, vanilla and salt.  Blend in mixer, with a whisk or in a blender for 1 mnute.  Add flour and blend until smooth.  Cover and chill for at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.
Combine fruit and 1/2 cup water in small heavy saucepan.  Cook over medium heat until fruit is softened and water has almost evaporated, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes.  Turn off heat.  Pour brandy over fruit.  Using a long match, ignite the brandy.  Let flames burn off, shaking pan occasionally.  Transfer fruit to small bowl.  Cool completely.  (Can be made 1 day ahead.  Cover and let stand at room temperature.)
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 375F.  Butter an 8-inch cake pan with 2-inch high sides.  Line bottom with parchment paper.  Butter the paper.  Dust pan with flour, shaking out excess.  Place pan on baking sheet.
Reblend batter until smooth.  Pour into prepared pan. Drop fruit into batter, distributing evenly.  Bake cake on baking sheet until sides are puffed and brown and knife inserted into center comes out clean, about 1 hour.  Cool cake completely in pan on rack.
Place piece of parchment paper on flat plate.  Sift powdered sugar onto paper.  Run knife around cake in pan to loosen.  Invert pan onto paper, releasing cake.  Remove pan.  Peel off paper.  Place serving plate over cake and invert.  Dust top of cake with additional powdered sugar.  Extra fruit and/or crème fraîche may be added.

Bon appétit, C'est si Bon and my chefs!